Bulgaria
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Bulgaria
(България)

Although inhabited since ancient times, the history of modern-day Bulgaria begins with the 7th-century migration of Turkic tribes from the steppes north of the Black Sea.  After defeating the Byzantines in 680 AD, the Bulgars settled down in the Balkans.  They soon adopted the Slavic language spoken by the local inhabitants, and converted to Orthodox Christianity in the late 9th century.  Under Tsar Simeon the Great (893-927), this first Bulgarian empire expanded across the Balkans to the Adriatic, and nearly to the gates of Constantinople.
In 1014, Emperor Basil II (the "Bulgar-Slayer") reasserted Byzantine control over the Balkans, crushing the Bulgarian army and putting out the eyes of its survivors. The Bulgarians established a second empire in 1185, dominating the eastern Balkans until their conquest by the Ottoman Turks two centuries later.
Periodic rebellions against Turkish rule, often with the support of other Great Powers such as Austria or Russia, were all brutally suppressed.  The harsh Ottoman reaction to one such uprising, in 1876, served as a pretext for a full-scale Russian invasion.  The Turks agreed to concede Bulgarian independence, but the other Great Powers, fearful of Russian influence in the Balkans, negotiated the less favorable Treaty of Berlin (1878), which returned Macedonia and Thrace to the Turks.
Eager to expand their territory at Ottoman expense, Bulgaria, Serbia, Greece and Montenegro formed the Balkan League, an alliance which aimed to partition Macedonia and Thrace.  After achieving success in the First Balkan War (1912-13), the allies fell into fighting amongst themselves over the spoils of war.  Bulgaria launched the ill-fated Second Balkan War against Greece and Serbia, only to be ganged up on by its other neighbors, the Ottomans and Romanians.
Bulgaria joined the Central Powers during World War I in another failed bid to expand its territory.  Under the Treaty of Neuilly (1919), Bulgaria lost its Aegean coastline to Greece, and ceded territory to Romania and the newly-formed Yugoslavia.  Bulgaria made the same tragic mistake in World War II, siding with the Axis Powers in the hope of regaining lost lands from its neighbors.
Soviet forces liberated the country from Nazi occupation in 1944, and proceeded to engineer a Communist takeover.  After an initial flirtation with Tito's non-aligned movement, and the inevitable Stalinist backlash, the People's Republic of Bulgaria settled in for over three decades of rule by Party Secretary Todor Zhivkov.  The transition to democratic rule in 1990 went relatively smoothly, and the former Communist Party — now re-designated the Bulgarian Socialist Party — remains part of the ruling coalition.  Another holdover has been the former king, Simeon II, who regained power as prime minister from 2001-05.
Bulgaria and Romania joined many of their former Warsaw Pact counterparts as members of NATO in 2004, but were denied admission to the European Union until 2007.

Sofia
(София)

Bulgaria's capital is one of the oldest in Europe, dating from the 8th century BC Thracian settlement of Serdica.
The Romans conquered the city in 29 AD, and Emperor Diocletian made it capital of the province of Dacia Mediterranea in the 3rd century. Although destroyed by the Huns in 447, and occasionally sacked by Slavs in subsequent centuries, the city continued to flourish under Byzantine rule.
Sredets (as it was then known) was incorporated into the Bulgarian empire in 809.  It fell to the Byzantines in 1018, and was restored to Bulgarian control in 1185.
This wealthy city was renamed Sofia in 1376. Its name honored the local Church of St. Sophia.
   
The Ottomans conquered Sofia in 1382, and made it capital of Rumelia — as they called their Balkan possessions — in 1444.  Sofia had become predominantly Muslim by the 16th century.
Sofia also attracted a sizeable Jewish population. Today, few traces remain of either cultural heritage.
On the other hand, Sofia is graced by numerous notable Christian churches.
       
The oldest places of worship date from the Roman and Byzantine era.
The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built to honor Russian soldiers who died for Bulgarian independence, while the St. Nedelya Church was the scene of a bloody terrorist attack in 1925.
The city was bombed by the Allies during World War II, but quickly recovered.

Boyana Church (Боянска църква)

Perhaps the most famous church in Sofia — apart from its 6th-century namesake — is the medieval Boyana Church on the outskirts of town.
 

 

 
This small chapel is home to a set of frescoes, created in 1259, depicting the life of St. Nicholas. These are among the most well-preserved works of medieval art in Eastern Europe.

Rila Monastery
(Рилски манастир)

One of Bulgaria's most important cultural, historical and architectural monuments lies about 70 miles southwest of the capital, nestled in the imposing Rila Mountains.

The Rila Monastery is dedicated to a 10th-century Bulgarian hermit, St. Ivan (John) of Rila. This holy man was so revered in life, a monastery was erected near the cave in which he lived.
After his death in 946, his relics were much prized by Bulgarian rulers. They spent the next few centuries in Sofia, then were moved to Veliko Tarnovo.
It wasn't until 1469 that his remains were returned to his namesake monastery.
   
In the 14th century, the local feudal lord, Hrelyo Dragovol, fortified the monastery.  The residential complex was further expanded in the mid-18th century.
An 1833 fire destroyed many of the buildings. They were rebuilt over the next several decades.
   
The architect Alexei Rilets led the reconstruction of the monastery in the Bulgarian National Revival style.
 

 

 
The main church was enlarged, and lavishly decorated inside and out. The monastery was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1983.

Practical Information

We stayed in Sofia for two nights in February 2005.

  • Hotel: We stayed with A.J., a fellow Olmsted Scholar who was attending Sofia University at the time
  • Restaurants: We had an excellent dinner at the "Under the Linden" (Подъ Липите) restaurant with some of A.J.'s friends
  • Transportation: A.J drove us everywhere we needed to go

This page was first published 8 April 2007, and last updated 17 August 2008.