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Andalucía (Andalusia)

Southern Spain had long been settled by Greeks, Phoenicians, and Carthaginians before the Romans established the province of Baetica in the 3rd century BC.  With the collapse of the empire, barbarians overran the peninsula.  A tribe known as the Vandals settled temporarily in Baetica, moving on to North Africa as the Visigoths consolidated control in the early 5th century AD.
Three centuries later, the process was reversed.  Arabs and Berbers from North Africa invaded Europe in 711, landing on the rock which still bears their leader's name: Gebel (Mount) Tariq — Gibraltar.  Their armies quickly conquered the Visigoth kingdom, and marched halfway to Paris before they were stopped by Charles Martel, Charlemagne's grandfather, in 732.
The Moors, as these Islamic invaders were known, called their conquered territories al-Andalus — "isle of the Vandals". Andalusian flag As Christians reconquered the peninsula, Andalusia came to refer only to the southern regions still under Muslim control.
The 11th-century collapse of the Caliphate of Cordoba led to the establishment of a number of successor states (taifas).  Unable or unwilling to work together, one by one they fell victim to the onslaught of the Christian crusades.  Granada, the last Islamic kingdom, held out until 1492.
After the reconquista, Muslims were forced to convert to Christianity or face exile.  Even so, the remaining moriscos were expelled from the kingdom in 1609.  Nevertheless, they left behind a rich and distinct legacy in Andalusia: besides Islamic architecture, arts, and sciences, Muslims introduced rice, lemons, oranges, olives, and grapes to Spain, as well as many Spanish words.

Statue of Carmen, fictional local heroine of the famous opera, across from the bullring

Sevilla (Seville) UNESCO World Heritage List

Torre de Oro (Golden Tower), part of the defensive walls built by the Almohads in 1220
18th-century Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, one of Spain's oldest bullrings Approaching the Torre de Oro along the Paseo Alcalde Marqués de Contradero, along the Río Guadalquivir
Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop's Palace) in the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes A settlement has existed on the banks of the Guadalquivir since at least 2800 BC.  The Romans established the nearby town of Itálica — birthplace of future emperors Trajan and Hadrian — in 207 BC. The Plaza del Triunfo celebrates the city's survival after a 1755 earthquake
The Archivo de Indias is a collection of colonial records housed in the former 16th-century merchants' exchange Julius Caesar founded the Roman colonia of Hispalis in 45 BC. 17th-century Cruz de la Cerrajería, in the Plaza Santa Cruz
  Patio de la Montería in the Reales Alcázares, looking back towards the Giralda "Yxvillia" (as it was known in Arabic) achieved prominence under the Moors, serving as capital of Al-Andalus until 716. Statue of Don Juan, another local literary hero featured in works by Mozart, Molière, and others, in the Plaza de Refinadores  
Laura outside the Puerta del León, entrance to the Reales Alcázares Despite being sacked by the Vikings in 844, Seville eclipsed Cordoba in importance after the 11th-century collapse of the caliphate. Approaching the palace of Pedro I in the Reales Alcázares
Seville soon found itself under threat by Christian armies during the reconquista.  Sultan al-Mutamid turned to the warlike north-African Almoravid tribe for help in 1086.
  Patio del Yeso (Plaster Courtyard)

They were followed in 1146 by another tribe, the Almohads, who made Seville their capital.

Another view of the Patio del Yeso  
Leaving the Patio de las Muñecas (Courtyard of the Dolls) Patio de las Muñecas Entering the Patio de las Doncellas (Courtyard of the Maidens)
  The Salón de las Embajadores was built in 1427  
Horseshoe arches in the Salón de las Embajadores (Ambassadors' Hall) Artisans from Granada & Toledo created this masterpiece of mudéjar architecture
Ceiling featuring miniature castles & lions, symbols of Castile, in an Islamic geometric pattern Ceiling of the Salón de las Embajadores Sala de Infantes
Islamic-inspired mudéjar arches in the Patio de las Doncellas After centuries of conflict, King Fernando III of Castile finally conquered Seville in 1248. The Patio de las Doncellas is the main courtyard in the Reales Alcázares
  The Patio de las Doncellas features a 14th-century mudéjar arcade topped by a 16th-century Renaissance gallery  
His son, Alfonso X, designated Seville a royal city five years later, and commissioned a Gothic palace next to the Muslim citadel.

 

Tapestry in the Palacio Gótico (Gothic Palace)   Craig shows off the azulejos (glazed tiles) in the Reales Alcázares   Chapel in the "Gothic Palace" of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V  
Gardens behind the royal palaces In 1356, an earthquake destroyed much of the city. Fountains & pools feature prominently in Islamic & mudéjar architecture Pedro I rebuilt the palaces in the mudéjar style. Grotto behind the Reales Alcázares
The Reales Alcázares represent a remarkable fusion of Arab and Christian architecture.
Later rulers such as Charles V also added elements to the palace complex.
Jardín de la Danza Another view of the gardens, looking back towards the palaces Artists find inspiration in the gardens outside the Charles V Pavilion
The Spanish royal family occasionally sleeps over at the palace to this day, making the Reales Alcázares the world's oldest royal residence still in use.
East end of the cathedral, dedicated to Santa María de la Sede After the earthquake, a new cathedral was built on the site of the former Great Mosque.  The plan was so enormous, its designers were convinced that, "when they see it, future generations will think that we were mad." Puerta de los Palos, cathedral entrance from the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
  Puerta de San Cristóbal, main entrance from the Plaza del Triunfo  
View of the cathedral from the Plaza del Triunfo Puerta de la Asunción, the entrance from the Avenida de la Constitución, was not finished until 1833
View of the cathedral nave Retrochoir (behind the choir) Baroque choir portico Cathedral organ
 Built between 1401 and 1519, it is the third largest cathedral in the world.
Capilla de San Isidoro

It is also the final resting place of Christopher Columbus.

Capilla de Scalas Only St. Peter's (Rome) and St. Paul's (London) are larger.

Rose window in the cathedral's west wall

Tomb of Cristóbal Colón (Christopher Columbus) His remains were brought here from Cuba after Spain lost its last American colony in 1899. Detail from the monument to Columbus
Choir stalls More choir stalls
Silhouette inside the Sacristía Mayor (main sacristy) Laura in the Patio del Mariscal, outside the chapter house Sala Capitular (chapter house) Laura in the chapter house
All that remains of the original mosque are its courtyard and minaret, known as La Giralda.
Renaissance ceiling of the Sacristía Mayor

It was originally topped by a pinnacle of spheres.

Ceiling in the Sacristía de los Cálices Work began on the Muslim tower in 1184.

Sacristía de los Cálices (Sacristy of the Chalices)

Bronze weather vane (giraldillo) representing Faith Toppled by the 14th-century earthquake, they were replaced by a belfry and weather vane. The Almohad-era minaret was topped by a 16th-century belfry & weather vane
View of the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes from La Giralda View of the Plaza del Triunfo & Reales Alcázares from the former minaret
La Giralda belfry Gargoyles above the Puerta de San Cristóbal View of the Patio de los Naranjos (orange trees), with the bullring in the background
More gargoyles, as seen from La Giralda Reached by a gently-sloping ramp, the belfry offers spectacular views of the city below. Gothic flying buttresses
La Giralda, as seen from the Patio de los Naranjos, courtyard of the former mosque Inside the Puerta del Perdón Outside the Puerta del Perdón, flanked by Roman columns from Itálica A stuffed alligator hangs above the Puerta del Lagarto
Plaza de Cabildo Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary Sneak peek inside the Hospital de la Caridad Baroque church of the Hospital de la Caridad (Charity Hospital)
Park across from the Charity Hospital  
Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts), housed in the former Convent of Mercy   Church on Alfonso XII street
Plaza de Armas shopping center
Iglesia de San José, on the Calle de las Sierpes, Seville's main shopping street Monument to Diego de Velázquez in the Plaza de la Victoria Iglesia de la Magdalena Another view of the Iglesia de la Magdalena
Detail of the Ayuntamiento (town hall), on the Plaza de San Francisco   Plaza Nueva, as sunset approaches   Equestrian statue in the Plaza Nueva
The discovery of America transformed Seville into one of the wealthiest cities in Europe.
The Ayuntamiento was built to honor the 1526 wedding of Charles V to Isabel of Portugal Plaza de San Francisco, with La Giralda in the distance Laura outside the Caja San Fernando bank
Behind the Iglesia del Salvador

Triumphal entrance to the Casa de Pilatos, named for the house of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem

All goods bound for the Americas or the Philippines were required to first pass through Seville. Traditional flamenco dresses for sale on the Calle de Francos Iglesia de San Nicolás

Don Fadrique Enríquez returned from a pilgrimage to Jerusalem in 1519

The Casa de Contratación (chamber of commerce) was set up in 1503 to regulate trade with the colonies.
The Casa de Pilatos was commissioned by Don Fadrique Enríquez de Ribera, Marqués de Tarifa It held a commercial monopoly from 1543 until 1680, when the port of Cadiz was granted a share of the action.
Entrance to the Consejería de Cultura

Iglesia San Ildefonso

 Galleons laden with gold, silver, and other precious commodities arrived in Seville twice each year. Iglesia Santa María la Blanca View towards the Iglesia San Bartolomé

Detail from the Iglesia San Ildefonso

Much of this wealth enriched local officials and merchants, financing numerous Renaissance palaces and Baroque churches.
Church on Calle Aguilas, near the Casa de Pilatos Seville became an artistic and cultural center, home to such painters as Diego de Velázquez.
Church on the Plaza de la Encarnación Iglesia San Esteban Behind the Iglesia San Esteban
  Iglesia San Pedro  
Iglesia Santa Catalina Iglesia San Andrés
The Palacio de San Telmo, once a school for navigators, is now the seat of the Junta de Andalucía Sculpture in the Parque María Luisa Teatro Lope de Vega, in the Parque María Luisa
Entrance to the former Real Fábrica de Tabacos (Royal Tobacco Factory), now home to the university   Monument in the Jardines de Murillo, outside the walls of the Reales Alcázares   Laura in the Jardines del Murillo, with a monument to Columbus in the distance
Seville hosted a world's fair, the so-called Ibero-American Exposition, in 1929.
It was held in the former gardens of the Palacio San Telmo. Plaza de España, site of the 1929 exposition   The Plaza de España is part of the Parque María Luisa Princess María Luisa donated this land to the city in 1893.
The Ibero-American Exposition was an opportunity to show off Spanish culture Expo 92 was held on an island in the river in 1992.
  Laura in the Plaza de España   Aníbal González built the Plaza de España
It marked the 500th anniversary of Columbus' first voyage.
  The Plaza de España was built in a theatrical style   Each city in Spain has a niche dedicated to it  
Azulejo sign advertising the Mesón de la Infanta restaurant

Nighttime in the Plaza del Triunfo

"La Bodega" azulejo sign, made of painted ceramic tiles Another bodega (store) selling jamón Seville is famous for its ceramic tiles, such as these on Calle Santa María la Blanca

Orange trees & La Giralda

Today Seville is Spain's fourth-largest city, and capital of the Andalusia region — the Comunidad Autónoma Andaluza.
Plaza Virgen de los Reyes at night
Iglesia de la Magdalena Plaza San Francisco Iglesia del Salvador

Practical Information

We stayed in Seville for two nights in early February 2004.

  • Hotels: the Hesperia Porta Coeli, located a short walk from the city center, is relatively inexpensive, with Islamic-style furniture in the rooms, but it does not offer a free breakfast buffet
  • Restaurants: We ate at a nice Chinese restaurant near the hotel one night, but settled for American fast food (KFC) the second
  • Transportation: Seville hasn't finished building its metro, so we did a lot of walking ...

This page was first published 21 June 2004, and last updated 08 March 2005.